Minus W-I-N-O-N-A 
Agony and ecstasy MOODS
Ice and dice, often CUBES
Theme: city + country with a missing letter = random phrase [it’s tough to clue this theme in the grid; and without a title, the clever theme might be missed --- especially given the difficulty of the puzzle]
East Asian “pet”? BEIJINGCHIA
Iberian bridge? MADRIDSPAN
Celtic quaffs? CARDIFFALES
RATING:
Three grins = Excellent: Loved it; Two grins = Good: Enjoyed it; One grin = Satisfactory: A bit bland for my taste; One teardrop = Unsatisfying: No fun
